![]() Chang’s director of international operations. “And the rest see a symbol of America because the only place they see those boxes is American movies.”Įxecutives learned that lesson when they ordered the foldable boxes for Shanghai, only to discover no one here used them, said Kristen Briede, P.F. “In American eyes, looking at those takeout boxes you see a symbol of China,” Lee said. She pointed to the ubiquitous white takeout box found at Chinese restaurants in the U.S. Lee, who produced “The Search for General Tso,” a documentary about Chinese food in America. “Despite trade wars and bickering, there’s still a respect on China’s side for American culture and its influence,” said Jennifer 8. Chang’s other Asia-based restaurant is in South Korea.) Seoul’s similar themed brand, Ho Lee Chow, has operated for two decades. A Shanghai restaurant called Fortune Cookie did a brisk business in moo shu pork and egg fried rice until its owners moved away in 2016. Chang’s isn’t the first to wade into the perilous world of American Chinese food politics. imposed punitive sanctions on China,” he tweeted. Bush, had his own theory for the chain’s expansion to Shanghai. The restaurant’s opening also drew skepticism in the U.S., where the Trump administration is threatening China with billions of dollars in tariffs.ĭavid Frum, a former speechwriter for President George W. “This kind of food can attract the foreigners in China, maybe.” “If Chinese want to have something Western they usually prefer traditional American food or other Western food, rather than something like Chinese American food,” said Shirley Lu, a Shanghai-based analyst for Euromonitor International, a market research firm. Even the notion of “farm to wok” - a key marketing tool in the company’s other restaurants - is taken for granted in China, where food already comes out fast and fresh. Many of the first customers said they tried the restaurant because they heard about it on “The Big Bang Theory,” an American sitcom that has reached a level of obsession here akin to “Seinfeld” in the U.S. … Chinese American food is a foreign food for, but not really.”īut nostalgia and novelty only go so far. ![]() ![]() “This trail back and forth, that is what’s supposed to happen,” said Rui Xi, who leads Lost Plate food tours that introduce foreigners to authentic cuisine in Shanghai and other Chinese cities. A private equity firm now owns the chain, which last year earned about $1.2 billion in revenue. The first location opened in 1993 in an Arizona shopping mall. Chang’s - an Americanized mash of their names. It was there that he met restaurateur Paul Fleming, and the two dreamed up P.F. Her son, Philip Chiang, opened a more casual affair nearby. ![]()
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